Since its humble opening in 2005, Xi’an Famous Foods has expanded from one stall in Flushing to 14 locations in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens. CEO Jason Wang divulges the untold story of how this empire came to be, alongside the never-before-published recipes that helped create this New York City icon. From heavenly ribbons of liang pi doused in a bright vinegar sauce to flatbread filled with caramelized pork to cumin lamb over hand-pulled Biang Biang noodles, this cookbook helps home cooks make the dishes that fans of Xi’an Famous Foods line up for while also exploring the vibrant cuisine and culture of Xi’an.

Transporting readers to the streets of Xi’an and the kitchens of New York’s Chinatown, Xi’an Famous Foods is the cookbook that fans of Xi’an Famous Foods have been waiting for.

It is such a treat to be a member of Abrams Dinner Party because we receive the hot new cookbooks that are sure to wow and excite our palettes. And during this past year with Covid, I think a lot more people were cooking at home and hopefully, they were trying many new recipes.

Not living in the North East, there are many restaurants that I have never heard of but I’m sure the same could be said for those that live there and the restaurants available in Texas. I always enjoy learning about new places and dishes and while I may only drool over some of them, there are always some that I will endeavor to make or adapt.

The wonderful thing about this cookbook, and several others I have enjoyed over the past few years, is that it is more than just a book with recipes and photos of those dishes. It is a story begging to be told about the founders of the restaurant, their family, and the dishes that have made them popular.

While reading through this book, there are so many different aspects to inhale. Outside of the founder’s story, there is a section that is a guide to the flavors of Xi’an. There is a discussion of the spices used to flavor dishes from sour to spicy to super spicy. I enjoyed the history of the spices and how they arrived in this part of China to be used in cooking. There is also a section about what should be stocked in your pantry and refrigerator so when you are craving these foods you have everything ready to make the dish of choice.

We move on to cooking lessons and the biggest lesson is how to cook rice the right way. I learned a few tips I hadn’t thought of before and will be trying those out next time I need to make some rice. And while I’m not sure how I feel about trying to make noodles, the recipe looks simple enough and I think it is just a time consideration. So this would need to be a weekend project when I have more time. The same would probably hold true for the dumplings.

Interspersed with the recipes are more stories of the family and restaurant and that it is not all work, there is definitely time to play and have a good time. I think we get a better insight into them from this information and that they are no different than you or me.

Overall, this cookbook is more than meets the eye and should be savored over time.  With that, I will leave you with one of the simpler recipes but still chock full of flavor.

Eggs and Tomatoes

Ingredients

2 Tbsp veg oil, divided

2 large eggs, beaten

2 green onions, trimmed and chopped

1 medium tomato, roughly sliced into odd sized pieces

1/2 tsp salt

1 Tbsp soy sauce

1/2 tsp sugar

Heat 1 Tbsp of the vegetable oil in a skillet over low heat.

Add the beaten eggs to the pan and stir until you have a soft scramble but before they get browned about 3 minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Turn the heat up to high and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Add the green onions, and stir fry for 15 seconds.

Add the tomatoes, stir to combine, and cook for another 15 seconds. Add the salt, stir and cook for 30 seconds.

Add the soy sauce and sugar and stir to combine. Add the reserved eggs, stir to combine, and cook for another 3 seconds.

Serve immediately.